FAQ's (FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS)
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Most of the time, yes. To be sure, check with your local city and county codes administrations. Depending where you live, you may need either a city, county or both to legally build the structure. Different offices have regulations for permits pending deck height, size, and if there's a roof structure above. Most cities require occupational licenses. In Johnson County KS, any contractor building decks must have both workman's comp and liability insurance and be licensed in Johnson County. FYI - Never pour your footings before checking to see if you need a pier inspection.
The ambient temperature (outside air temperature) does not determine the degree at which concrete can be mixed to cure properly. The earth is much warmer than the outside air. Concrete actually generates its own heat source and the temperature in the ground is what maintains the concrete's warmth. Generally, if the concrete is covered with wet burlap (to hold in heat) and plastic (to retain moisture) immediately after mixing, concrete will cure faster than it freezes no matter how cold it is. FYI - To help insure properly cured concrete in severe cold, use a fast setting concrete or accelerating additive (calcium and other types are available at concrete specialty stores).
Support posts should almost always be set on top of concrete. Concrete does not protect from moisture. In fact, it is porous. It acts as a sponge by sucking up moisture from the ground and then retaining it. This causes all wood species (even treated) to decay at an accelerated rate. It causes metal to rust faster than normal. Also, the less concrete underneath the post, the weaker the strength of the footing. Lumber set in concrete is also more prone to come in contact with dirt which is a breeding ground for termites and carpenter ants. An infestation from one of these pests could be the end of your structure. FYI - Check with your local building codes to find out the required hardware for fastening supports to concrete. There are several different types depending on the application. (i.e. - "Stand-off Bases" for cedar decks/ "Hurricane Ties" for all season rooms, etc.)
Almost all treated lumber is now the makeup of ACQ (Alkaline Copper Quaternary). ACQ replaced CCA in the last few years due to health concerns about the chemicals in CCA. The new ACQ lumber is much safer for contractors and consumers but much more corrosive to metals. Any metal fastener coming in contact with ACQ must be ACQ APPROVED and should be indicated on its package. Typically, nails, screws, bolts, washers, and nuts should be "hot-dipped galvanized" and hangers, brackets, ties, and bases should be "Z-max." There are some other metals which are acceptable but check package labeling before installing. Don't assume! If you're unsure, call your local building codes administration to verify. A non-ACQ approved fastener may only last up to a couple of months before it jeopardizes the safety and integrity of the structure. FYI - For more details and information on ACQ and its approved fasteners, visit: http://www.sutherlands.com/acq.htm
S4S (Smooth Four Sides) cedar and ACQ (treated) lumber should not be stained or sealed for a period of time following construction. S4S cedar has what is known as a "mill glaze." This is the cauterization of the wood surface from being ran through high speed rip saws during the milling process. The "mill glaze," along with cedar's natural oils, take about six to eight weeks of natural weathering to wear off. However, rough cedar may be stained or sealed just after installation because it has a more open grain. ACQ lumber has several chemicals pressure injected into it which "treat" the wood - protecting it from decay and insects. Manufacturers recommend giving the material at least 1 full calendar year to dry out. By our experience, we suggest eighteen months before applying anything to the surface of this wood. If not allowed to weather, these factors will prevent the stain/ sealant from penetrating the wood grain deep enough to provide lasting protection. FYI - Before staining or sealing, power wash to remove all embedded sediment. Be careful not to get the wand tip too close to the wood as the pressure may damage the surface. Let the wood dry thoroughly for 24-48 hours. Below are three premium stain/ sealants we highly recommend: http://www.penofin.com http://www.superdeck.com
http://www.sikens.com
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"What
is "Checking?"
As wood begins
to dry out, it usually develops natural cracks called "checks."
Checking happens as moisture is released from the wood's outer rings at
a faster rate than its inner rings.
"A check is a
naturally occurring lengthwise separation between wood fibers parallel
to the grain."
- © 1997 The APA
- The Engineered Wood Association -
Checking, the
separation of continuous wood fibers, is a naturally occurring
consequence of the seasoning process of wood. The outer fibers lose
moisture to the surrounding atmosphere and attempt to shrink, but the
inner portion of the timber member loses moisture at a much slower rate.
The different rates of shrinkage can cause the wood to check or split.
Rapid drying increases the differential moisture content between the
inner and outer fibers and thus increases the propensity for checking in
the timber. The checking (and shrinkage) process will stabilize as the
moisture content of the member reaches equilibrium with the surrounding
environmental conditions."
- © 2009
APA - The Engineered
Wood Association -
"Why
does it occur?"
Checking is more
prominent in larger timbers and less porous woods. Both of these
characteristics delay the rate at which wood's core moisture evaporates
compared to its outer shell. While larger sizes and denser woods are more
prone to check, this natural phenomenon can appear in almost any
dimension or species of wood.
The amount of
checking greatly depends on how fast the wood dries out. Kansas
City's extreme variance in temperatures creates an ideal environment to
produce wood checking. No matter what the climate conditions or
surrounding air temperature, checking can and probably will show up at
some point.
Below are some
pictures of profound checking which popped up on the pergola in our back
showroom. Keep in mind, this in Western Red Cedar.
Cedar is not only very porous but is also widely
recognized as
one of the more stable wood
species. Nonetheless, substantial checking still happened.
Not to mention, this display was built and has always been kept indoors
with a temperature variance of never more than five degrees Fahrenheit.
 
Many homeowners
and novice builders erroneously misinterpret wood checking as the
beginning of wood deterioration. The truth is, checking has no
affect on the structure, strength, or durability of wood. Checking
rarely penetrates further than the heart or center of a log, timber, or
board.
As a matter of
fact, many top designers, architects, and builders request wood
containing checks for a more natural look.
"What
can be done to prevent it?"
There is no cure
or way or absolute way to prevent checking. It can be slowed by
staining, sealing or painting the wood. This will help retain
moisture in the outer layers longer. Thus allowing the wood to dry
more evenly throughout, and therefore, separate less.
If checking
seems unsightly, you can fill the gapping with an elastomeric caulk or
epoxy. When filling wood which is kept outdoors, it is recommended
to follow with paint, lacquer, or poly urethane. This will help
prevent separation of the filler from wood after more exposure to the
elements.
Fore more info
on "Wood Checking," visit the following links:
http://www.apawood.org/glu_level_b.cfm?content=prd_glu_gen_check
http://www.wvu.edu/~exten/infores/pubs/other/wooddr2.pdf
http://northernloghome.com/checking.htm
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